Jun 11, 2010

Before running to the local pet store with the hopes of plopping down a couple of twenties and coming home with all the makings of your very own fish sanctuary, you will want to learn a little about what you are getting yourself into. Many people falsely assume that a tank, some basic supplies and a few dozen fish are not only inexpensive, but require minimal care. Nothing could be further from the truth.

First on the list, you must determine if you?re a fish person. Most fish do not provide much direct contact, though I once had a goldfish that would allow some petting. However, if you are looking for something to cuddle with, to scratch behind the ears or to fetch the morning paper, fish are not your best bet. Fish fall under the category of ?relaxing to watch,? but also under the category of ?high maintenance.? They require daily feedings (usually two), constant monitoring of their tank conditions along with routine tank cleanings, and frequent water changes (a portion every couple of days). If you are squeamish about getting wet, with dirty fish water no less, you might consider a different pet.

Once you have decided that you are suited to care for fish properly, take a good look at your surroundings. Do you have the right environment and adequate space to hold a twenty gallon fish tank, which is usually the recommended size for beginners? Keep in mind that a twenty gallon fish tank weighs roughly 225 pounds and putting it on the floor is not advisable. This means purchasing a stand for the tank or putting it on a very sturdy piece of furniture that can withstand not only the weight but the occasional dousing of water. The location of the tank is also critical. Most experts suggest that a fish tank be placed in an area away from windows and free from drafts so that the water temperature is easier to regulate (not as big of a concern for a cool water aquarium). You also want to make sure the location is near an electrical outlet so that you can plug in the heater, air pump, light, etc.

If you have an appropriate location for a fish tank, then you can move on to the next step of pricing supplies. For the smaller tanks (20-29 gallon), it is usually less expensive to buy them at a local pet store, as shipping costs can be as much as the tank itself, depending on the type you buy. Shopping online offers another option, though you will need to plan ahead to allow for shipping. Do some comparison shopping, including the inclusive packages that come with everything you need. While some of the package deals offer a great savings, some are filled with low end equipment or items you do not need. Your necessities include: a tank (remember that advice for beginners typically suggests a twenty gallon tank), a cover or hood for your tank (with or without a light) some type of filtration system, a heater (unless you decide to have a cool water aquarium), a net and food. Other things you will want to consider: gravel or substrate for the bottom of the tank (required if you decide on an under gravel filter), an air pump (some filtration systems include air pumps), a thermometer, plants and tank decorations and possibly a few chemicals. Many of these other things will depend on the type of fish you plan on keeping in your aquarium.

Speaking of the fish, what type do you want? It is helpful to have an idea of the type of fish you want, before you actually purchase any of your supplies so that you don?t buy unnecessary items. One of the best ways to pick the type of fish is to take a trip to your local pet store and see what they carry. They typically keep a variety of fish in stock that will do well in your area (some fish are sensitive to additives in water in certain areas). Also, talk to the people who work with the fish. They are a great resource for helping you choose fish because they know which types of fish are hardy and which ones are compatible with others. Many people suggest starting with a cool water aquarium, but I?ve always preferred tropical fish that belong in a warm water aquarium. If you do your homework, tropical fish are nearly as easy to keep. I would not, however, suggest that you jump right into salt-water fish. While they are beautiful and brilliantly colored, they do require quite a bit more work and are more expensive.

Now that you have completed all the steps and, hopefully, conducted a little research of your own, you should be up for the challenge of fish ownership without encountering too many surprises. While fish can be expensive and do require quite a bit of maintenance, they can also provide you with lasting enjoyment and, some say, can even help you relax. Happy fishing!

Terry J. Coyier is a 37-year-old college student studying for an Associates of Applied Sciences degree. She is also a freelance writer who writes about a variety of topics. She lives with her son in the Dallas/Ft. Worth Metroplex. This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.

Jun 8, 2010

Tropical fish are like other species in many respects, and that includes the fact that they have diseases or disorders that may resemble those of other animals, but are specific to the fish themselves. One good example is tumors.

Just as humans, cats or dogs may get cancer or other types of tumors, so can tropical fish. The main difference is that treatment in fish is nearly impossible, depending on the type and location of the mass. Not only are they difficult to handle where a human can have clear visual access to them, but such things as surgery are basically out of the question.

Tumors generally show themselves as a lump under or on the skin of fish. These are a distinct bump or lump, as opposed to the white fluff of skin diseases. For the most part, tumors are benign, although it's possible for one to grow so large that the fish's quality of life declines and you may have to euthanize them.

One type of tumor that does have some success with treatment, is the kind that forms under the skin of the gill, causing it to remain open. The cause of this is usually a thyroid malfunction. Remove the fish to a hospital tank, and add 1 milligram of potassium iodine for every gallon of water. Improvement can be slow, and the full course of treatment can take up to four weeks.

Internal tumors can be quite advanced before the fish shows any signs, such as a swelling of the abdomen. These cases are invariably fatal, with the rapid growth causing the fish to lose its ability to swim or eat, at which time you should consider euthanasia.

Love Tropical Fish? Find out how to create a beautiful, low-cost tropical fish aquarium with complimentary tips at http://www.TropicalFishIsland.com

May 8, 2008

INTRODUCTION:

Nitrogen is an element vital to all life processes on Earth. Nitrogen is very important in our biosphere, where nitrogen comprises 78% of the atmosphere, and is part of every living tissue. It is a component of amino acids, proteins and nucleic acids. With the exception of carbon, nitrogen is the most universal element of life. Life could not exist without nitrogen. Nitrogen is essential for organic development nitrogenous compounds are also required by some organisms for metabolic functions and respiration.

All living organisms, from fish to plants, have great quantities of assimilated nitrogen in their tissues. Nitrogen is a fundamental ingredient for the formation of proteins and nucleic acids. Every organism you place in your aquarium adds nitrogen from fish to coral, to live rock, to plants. The introduction of food also adds nitrogen. Dead or alive, they are organic masses, and possess the same nitrogenous attributes as the fish, plants, invertebrates you added to your aquarium.Inorganic nitrogen is added two ways: the atmosphere and new water. Atmospheric nitrogen (N2) is incorporated into our aquarium water by way of nitrogen fixing bacteria and by cyanobacteria as ammonia (NH3). Inorganic nitrogenous compounds from our tap or well water also enter our aquarium, often as Nitrates or Nitrates. Reverse Osmosis can remove much of this.

NITRIFICATION:

When an organism dies, nitrogen is moved from plant or animal into the inorganic chemical ammonia by the process of bacterial decay. Ammonia is also produced by bacteria in the breakdown of protein. This process is called Mineralization and is the end result of the metabolism of food. However, ammonia is produced from both metabolism and mineralization. The decomposition (mineralization) process produces large quantities of ammonia (NH3) through the process of ammoniafication. Heterotrophic microbes utilize the organic compounds of decomposing matter as their carbon source. Ammonia (NH3) is the byproduct of this consumption. Ammonia, in its neutral state, exists as ammonium (NH4+).

Ammonia (NH4) is assimilated in more than one way. Plants (such as Hornwort) and algae can assimilate ammonia and ammonium directly for the biosynthesis. The remaining bulk of decomposed byproducts are utilized by bacteria in a process called nitrification. Ammonia does not last long in a healthy aquarium environment, fortunately. Nitrifying bacteria such as Nitrosomonas quickly break down ammonia into less toxic Nitrite (NO2). During this process, specific species of nitrifying bacteria strip the ammonium of its hydrogen molecules as an energy source. Oxygen molecules are then affixed to the stripped nitrogen, forming the oxide nitrite (NO2). Another group of bacteria (Nitrobacter ) utilize the enzyme nitrite oxidase that is then responsible for converting nitrite into nitrate (NO3). This nitrate can either be used by plants as a nutrient source, or can be further broken down into nitrogen gas (N2) through the activity of anaerobic bacteria such as Pseudomonas .

It should be noted, that without oxygen (nitrification is an oxidative process), none of this process can take place. It should also be noted that in recent studies the Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter responsible Freshwater nitrification are NOT the same in saltwater.

BIOFILTRATION:

Nature can pack a lot of bacteria into small places, which is to the advantage of the aquarist. For bacterial growth, all that is required is ammonia and oxygenated water. This is the beginning of the nitrogen process and the growth of bacterial colonies.Remember you need oxygen and a lot of surface area for bacterial colonies. Wet/dry filters, sponge filters, ceramic media, and loosely packed upper layers of gravel are all sources for bacterial accumulation. If there is not adequate surface area in oxygen areas of the filter media or gravel, nitrification will be poor. Water will follow the path of least resistance, so if your filter or gravel has a build-up of non-nitrifying bacterial slime or is packed to tightly, nitrification will not be achieved. Sponge Filters or Pre-Filters are an inexpensive filter medium for colonies of nitrifying bacteria. Wet/dry filters and live rock (in Marine Aquariums) are excellent sources of bio filtration in larger aquaria. Bio-Wheels are very popular, but in my tests in my maintenance business they are VASTLY overrated. They tend to accumulate hard water deposits and stop and even when they are working my tests have shown little difference in aquariums when they are removed as compared to sponge filters or wet/dry filters. Canister filters are also good sources for nitrification as long as the proper media is used (such as ceramic rings) and the media is not packed too tight and is rinsed regularly.

DENITRIFICATION:

Is the process of converting Nitrates (NO3) in to Nitrogen (N2), which is dispersed into the atmosphere. This process can take place in an environment without oxygen by anaerobic bacteria. This process is more common in Marine aquaria and takes place in fine #00 sand, , live rock, or ?aquarium mud?. In freshwater aquariums this process often produces deadly Hydrogen Sulfide, but by maintaining an oxygen level above 1 ppm, this can be avoided. Plants roots are great for maintaining this balance of oxygen in the gravel for proper Nitrate removalA thicker layer of coarse gravel utilizing a “void space” called a plenum is often used for Nitrate removal in Saltwater and even freshwater aquariums. These are not to be confused with under gravel filters.

SUMMARY OF LEVELS

In healthy aquarium ammonia and nitrites should be at 0 ppmIn a healthy freshwater aquarium Nitrates should be 15-50 ppm (below 15 ppm is not healthy for planted freshwater aquariums). In a healthy Saltwater fish aquarium nitrates should be below 40 ppm.In a healthy Marine Reef aquarium nitrates should be below 20 ppm (or even less).

AQUARIUM CYCLING:

These major additional benefits result from the constant removal of Nitrate by bacterial action in the plenum. My preferred cycling method (it was not in one of the links) is to transfer filter media (sponges work best) from an established aquarium along with some gravel, then introduce the fish SLOWLY starting in a day or two. The method of adding ?aged? media is much faster (you still have to take it slow), and provides all the necessary bacteria, the only negative is adding disease pathogens to your aquarium, but I have rarely encountered this problem. To prevent this transfer of disease pathogens and parasites, only use a media source where no new fish have been added in 30 days, ALL water parameters are good, and if possible has UV Sterilization (although not necessary). Also keep in mind that many pathogens such as pseudomonas are usually present in a healthy aquarium, but when fish are stressed, the fish are in poor health due to poor feeding and lack of proper minerals, and/or water conditions are less than desirable- these pathogens will be opportunistic and cause a disease in the fish.We used this method for our Aquarium Maintenance route for years and never lost a fish to Ammonia or nitrite poisoning, and disease transfer was minimal.

There are many products for cycling available too, but most in my opinion do not work well (although properly cared for BioSpira is effective).

Another method is fishless cycling where un-scented pure ammonia is poured into the aquarium (3-5 drops per gallon pure ammonia) so as to bring your ammonia level to 4-5 ppm. Then it takes about 3-8 weeks for the aquarium to cycle. Although this method is growing in popularity, I do not recommend it, not because it does not work (it does), but because human nature is to want to add fish sooner than the 3-8 weeks it takes for this method.

Another method is the gradual addition of fish food to an otherwise empty aquarium (no fish). This can be a very effective means of cycling that is preferred by many experienced aquarists.The method of adding ?aged? media is much faster (you still have to take it slow), and provides all the necessary bacteria, the only negative is adding disease pathogens to your aquarium, but I have rarely encountered this problem.

For a picture expalining the nitrogen cycle, please visit this URL:Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle

By Carl Strohmeyer

Aquarium Information

American Aquarium Products

May 7, 2008

Do I Need A Quarantine Tank?

Ah, yes, the often dismissed but very necessary part of the tropical fish hobby, the infamous quarantine tank. Do you really need one to be successful in this hobby?

For freshwater fish you may be able to get by without having one. Freshwater fish are generally more suited to captivity because they are usually tank raised and don't seem to break out in disease as readily as their saltwater counterparts. However, if newly acquired fish do come down with something, you will surely wish that you had one ready to go. One newly bought fish that is introduced to your main tank can easily wipe out the entire tank population. Better safe than sorry, right?

For saltwater aquarium keepers, I would say that you definitely need a quarantine tank. Marine specimens are mostly wild caught and not used to being kept in captivity. Their journey to a dealers tank is usually much longer and much more stressful for them. Stressed out fish will usually come down with some kind of disease if they don't simply die from the whole ordeal. Saltwater fish keepers will usually have other things in the main display tank such as invertebrates and live rock, that they don't want to expose to the harsh medicines necessary to treat one or two fish. Some medicines can wipe out all of the invertebrates in a tank, so be sure to research any medicine before using it in your tank.

Quarantine Tank Setup
You don't need to go all out here. A simple 10 - 20 gallon aquarium will suffice for most people. If you have larger fish then obviously you want to get a bigger quarantine tank. All you really need is a bare bones setup with the following equipment:

  • Some type of filtration (a hang on the back of the tank power filter will work, just use filter floss without the carbon since carbon will remove medication from the water, being counter productive)
  • Heater
  • A powerhead and/or an airstone for increased surface agitation
  • Test Kits for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate
  • Fish Net - don't use the same net for your main tank

Fill the quarantine tank with water from the main tank and then turn everything on in the quarantine tank.

Freshwater &amp Saltwater Fish Quarantine
For newly acquired fish you will want to acclimate them to the water in the quarantine tank and monitor them very closely for a period of two to three weeks. Monitor the water parameters with your test kits and check for signs of parasites or bacterial infections.

If the newly acquired fish does come down with something you will need to use the appropriate medication and you will need to keep them in quarantine for a further two weeks to make sure that you have indeed treated them effectively. If after a few weeks no problems develop, you can then acclimate them to the main tank water and then introduce them.

If a fish comes down with something while in your main tank, just net them and plop them into the quarantine tank. There should be no need to acclimate them because you used water from your main tank. If you didn't use water from the main tank you will need to acclimate them to the quarantine tank water. Diagnose the problem/disease and treat appropriately. After the disease clears up you will still want to keep the fish in quarantine for a week or so monitoring the water parameters with your test kits the whole time.

More On Saltwater Quarantine
Always have some extra saltwater ready in case you need to perform an emergency water change. Remember, you want to monitor those water parameters frequently (daily or at least once every two days). Many saltwater hobbyists always have saltwater ready just in case. You never want to mix up saltwater and add it right away. Freshly mixed saltwater can be fairly toxic to fish, in turn causing you more problems.

Conclusion
Freshwater hobbyists may get away with not using a quarantine tank, but saltwater hobbyists would be crazy not using one. Save yourself some money, headaches and especially the fish by having a quarantine tank. The fish in your main tank will thank you for it.

For more tropical fish and aquarium information, please visit FishLore.com - Freshwater & Saltwater Tropical Fish & Aquarium Information.

Mike is an editor at FishLore.com. Designed for beginners, FishLore.com provides tropical fish information, how-to guides, articles, fish profiles, FAQs, forums and more!

Apr 29, 2008

The history of breeding, raising and nurturing fish for their ornamental value and also for consumption is a long one. More than 4,000 years ago, people were cultivating fish, in ponds at first, but later in man-made tanks. Today, keeping fish in your home is easier than ever.

Early examples of fish in captivity can be found among the Egyptians and Romans as well. The Egyptians would selectively breed fish for certain characteristics and for the beauty of the fish itself. In Egyptian tombs, often one can find examples of fish, often associated with sacred objects. Later there are examples of Romans keeping and selling freshwater fish as food. In Greece, Aristotle was the first to formally study fish and classify them in groups. He found 115 species of fish, while today scientists have classified over 20,000 species.

Goldfish are a very popular aquarium fish today. They were actually originally bred in China over 1,000 years ago and kept for their ornamental value. By the late 17th century, goldfish had made their way to England and by the mid 19th century had found their way to America. Both in England and America, they could be seen in ornamental lakes and ponds all over the country. In 1853, the world's first public aquarium was opened to the public in Regents Park in London. Soon the idea of public aquariums spread across Europe and France and Germany opened aquariums as well. However, due to a lack of knowledge of filtration, adding air to the water and controlling water temperature, most of the fish died. Soon, however, those at the aquariums had learned from their mistakes and with new technology, successfully managed large aquariums. In 1856, P.T. Barnum of Barnum &amp Bailey fame, opened the first public aquarium in the United States. Over the next 50 years interest in aquariums increased and the popularity of aquariums increased as well.

Today with the advances in filtrations systems, pumps, tanks and fish food, it is fairly easy to keep an aquarium of your own at home. You can choose either a saltwater aquarium or a freshwater aquarium. Generally speaking, saltwater aquariums require more care, simply because there are more factors involved in keeping the environment stable. The upside to saltwater aquariums is that you can have a much wider variety of fish, although they usually cost quite a bit more than freshwater fish. How large you want your aquarium to be mostly depends on how much money you have to spend. If you love the look of aquariums, but can't or don't want to keep the aquarium clean yourself, there are many services today that will actually come to your home, clean your aquarium and perform whatever maintenance is needed. This is especially helpful with saltwater tanks.

Humans have had a long fascination with fish. Whether fish were kept in ponds or in aquariums, people have raised fish for food, pleasure or both. With the advances in technology, it is much easier to keep fish today than it was even 20 years ago. If you've ever thought about having an aquarium, do some research and see just how easy it is to have your own watery wonderland in your living room.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Aquariums

Apr 28, 2008

If you have a fish tank, then a fish tank pump is also a necessity. Finding the fish tank pump that is right for you can be difficult if you are not familiar with the industry. In most cases, when you buy a fish tank, you will also be given a fish tank pump. This makes things much easier, as you are ensured that everything will be compatible, and that you are setting everything up correctly. But if you are in the market for a new fish tank pump, or your aquarium did not come with one, you should seek out the advice of a professional. Professionals are at many of the popular pet stores and their knowledge is invaluable.

A fish tank pump is what gets air to your fish. Without a pump, there would be no air flow in your tank, making it uninhabitable for your fish. As you can see, a fish tank pump can be considered the life blood of your tank. If your pump stops working for any reason, you need to have it replaced as soon as possible. It is often good to have an extra fish tank pump on hand in case of emergencies. This way, if something happens, you will be able to swap them out quickly, keeping your fish in healthy, oxygenated water. Fish breath the air through the water and if your pump fails, the fish will not have any air to live on.

Finding a fish tank pump that works with your tank can be done by visiting your local pet store. They should have many options in stock, and will be able to provide you with a pump that will fit your current set up. Be sure to know the specifications of your tank, so that the pet store employee can point you in the right direction. Most fish tank air pumps are universal, but to make sure it fits it always helps to have as much information on hand as possible. Information such as the dimensions and capacity in gallons are needed in order to fit the pump to your fish tank.

Buying the right fish tank pump is very important. Without a pump, your fish would not be able to get the oxygen that they need. Always remember to check on your fish tank pump during your maintenance checks. Also periodically check the pump whenever you take time out to enjoy watching your fish.

Keith Londrie II is a well known author. For more information on Fish Aquariums, please visit Fish Aquariums Information for a wealth of information. You may also want to visit keith's own web site at Keith Londrie dot com

Apr 21, 2008

There is nothing more relaxing than a fish aquarium. You can actually sit and watch it for hours. The key behind a beautiful aquarium is the proper lighting. This will not only show off you fish and corals better, the right aquarium lighting will keep your tank environment stable and free of algae. When putting together all the equipment you need for your fish tank, aquarium lighting is one of the most important items especially for those of you who are tackling a reef aquarium. Lighting is critical to the plants, corals and other invertebrates for them to stay healthy as they require photosynthesis to generate required energy. Without the proper aquarium lighting, these will likely die over time. An aquarium light timer is the perfect way to control your tank?s lights without you having to be there to either turn them on or off.

If you want an aquarium with coral, reef aquarium lighting is critical to the longevity of certain types. Species requiring low to medium lighting will do just fine with VHO fluorescent or Power Compact fluorescent lighting systems. Corals that require intense aquarium lighting will do best with metal halide systems. The rule of thumb with metal halide lighting is 1 bulb for every 2 feet of tank you have. Larger tanks will require more lights of course to help with some heating as well as controlling algae. Metal halide lighting systems are designed to run 12 hours a day so this is where a good aquarium light timer can come into play.

Aquariums require a number of different supplies including heaters, chillers, air pumps, filters, ornaments and decorations. Aquariums can be quite expensive to put together so we always recommend putting a budget together before you get going. If you can plan out your fish tank, you can buy items such as aquarium lighting that you can grow into. You can find some excellent products at discount prices if you shop around and watch for sales. You may start out with fish only, and continue to add plants and corals to someday have an outstanding reef aquarium. Just remember, the most important thing about any aquarium is keeping the environment stable for your fish. The water temperature must be held constant at all times at the right temperature as too hot is just as harmful as too cool.

Amy-Jo Strutt is an expert author and regular contributor to http://www.aquarium-lighting-lights.com/index.html. For more information on aquarium lighting, reef aquarium lighting and aquarium supplies, check out: http://www.aquarium-lighting-lights.com/aquamedic-aquarium-lighting.html

Apr 18, 2008

INTRODUCTION:

There is a lot of confusion about what constitutes a quality flake food (or pellet). The aquarist needs to understand that there are similarities and differences between fish and other animals. For example Fish get most of their energy needs from fat, but in humans carbohydrates are a better source. Another point is amino acids (the building blocks of proteins) almost all animals have different amino acid needs. For example Cats need Taurine in there diet or they can suffer heart problems.

Then there is the speed of digestion, some fish such as goldfish tend to have slower digestive tracts (I like to compare it to a horse, but there are major differences such as the stomach). But the similarity is that if too high a protein or the wrong protein diet is fed, the horse may colic, and in goldfish they will build up intestinal gas and infections including swim bladder or dropsy will ensue. The wrong amino acids in any fish will lead to aquarium pollution (extra ammonia) and renal failure.

Another note about fish food is what carnivores need. Carnivorous fish often consume whole animals including intestinal contents, which often include plant material. A quality fish food for carnivores must include vegetable matter such as spirulina.

HERE ARE A FEW BUILDING BLOCK INGREDIENTS:

AMINO ACIDS:

An amino acid is any molecule that contains both amines (organic compounds that contain nitrogen as the key atom. Structurally amines resemble ammonia) and Carboxylic acids (organic acids characterized by the presence of a carboxyl group). Amino acids are used as the basic components of proteins.

The net protein utilization is profoundly affected by the limiting amino acid content or protein quality (the essential amino acid found in the smallest quantity in the foodstuff), and somewhat affected by salvage of essential amino acids in the body. It is therefore a good idea to mix foodstuffs that have different weaknesses in their essential amino acid distributions. This limits the loss of nitrogen through deamination and increases overall net protein utilization. Eggs (whether fish or even chicken) have the highest protein quality of any source. Which makes hard boiled egg crumbles an excellent food source for fry.

DL-methionine is an essential amino acid for producing the ?Lionhead? feature in goldfish. High levels of methionine can be found in the vegetable proteins of spinach, green peas, and garlic. DL-methionine can also be found in fish meal.

Bottom line Not all protein sources are equal. An analogy used at a pet food seminar I attended was this: You can achieve the protein analysis on many pet foods with a used pair of leather shoes, but leather shoes contain little usable proteins.

FATS:

Molecular compounds that are generally soluble in organic solvents and largely insoluble in water. Fats are important for insulating body organs against shock, maintaining body temperature, and promoting healthy cell function. They also serve as energy stores for the body. Fats are broken down in the body to release glycerol and free fatty acids. The glycerol can be converted to glucose by the liver and thus used as a source of energy. The fatty acids are the main source of energy in fish, especially for many tissues, such as heart and skeletal muscle. Another important function for fats are for vitamin absorption. Vitamins A, D, E, and K are fat-soluble, meaning they can only be digested, absorbed, and transported in conjunction with fats.

CARBOHYDRATES:

Molecular substances which include the sugars, starches, gums and celluloses. The common attributes of carbohydrates are that they contain only the elements carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, and that their combustion will yield carbon dioxide plus one or more molecules of Water.Most of the carbohydrates that enter the diet of fish are of plant origin. Carnivorous fish such as groupers, therefore, deal with little carbohydrate. Indeed, experiments have shown that these species are ill-equipped to handle significant quantities of raw carbohydrate, in their diets. The ability of fish to digest carbohydrates depends on their ability to elaborate amylase. All species of fish have been shown to secrete at least some amylase. It has also been demonstrated that activity of this enzyme was greatest in herbivores.

Carbohydrates are not a superior energy source for fish over protein or fat although digestible carbohydrates do spare protein for tissue building. Also, unlike in mammals, glycogen is not a significant storage depot of energy in fish. The more efficient metabolism of amino acids over carbohydrates (glucose) for energy could be due to the ability of fish to excrete nitrogenous waste as ammonia from their gills without the high cost of energy in converting the waste to urea.

FISH FOOD SOURCES:

FISH MEAL:

Fish meal has been widely used as a protein source for many years for fish. Two basic types of fish meal are produced (1) produced from fishery waste (salmon, tuna, etc.) that are associated with the processing of various edible human fishery products and (2) When specific fish (herring, menhaden, pollack, etc.) are harvested just for the purpose to produce fish meal. The fish can be dried directly drying or cooking prior to drying and oil extracted. In addition to being a by-product of human fish production it is also a by-product associated with fish oil production, which is where most commercial fish food obtain fish meal from.

Fish meal can be classified as two basic types (1) fishery waste associated with the processing of fish for human consumption, again the primary source. (2) Fish that are only used for the production of fish meal. This is the best source, listed on ingredients as ?Whole Fish Meal? or ?White Fish Meal?.

SHRIMP MEAL:

Shrimp meal can be made from either cull shrimp that are being processed before freezing or from whole shrimp that is not of suitable quality for human consumption. The material to be made into shrimp meal is dried (sun or using a dryer) and then ground. Shrimp meal has been used in trout and salmon diets as a source of pigments to impart the desirable color in the tissues.Shrimp meal has been found to be an acceptable supplemental protein source for fish, but inferior to whole fish meal.

SQUID MEAL:

Squid Meal is made from squid viscera portions from cannery plants including egg and testis.Squid Meal is high digestibility of protein source, which provides a full range of amino acids for fish. It provides various kinds of vitamins and minerals and also 1.0-1.5% of cholesterol that is suitable for fish fry and young fish.

BRINE SHRIMP:

Just over a centimeter in size, the adult brine shrimp (Artemia) is a common food source for fish. They can be purchased at many Pet Store as adults, Freeze dried or even eggs. The eggs look like a powdery brown substance but in reality the substance is thousands of cysts?eggs surrounded by protective cases. When added to water, these cysts will hatch into shrimp nauplii within a few hours.

As a food source brine shrimp are relatively limited (mostly because of their high water content). They are a good source of carotene for color and act as a natural laxative in fish digestive systems. The proteins them do supply are of high quality. Depending on the source they also can supply vegetable matter due to their consumption of algae.

SOYBEAN MEAL:

Use of soybean products in the aquaculture industry have become the focus of protein substitution in fish food around the world. The high protein level makes it a key ingredient for aquaculture feeds. Soybean meal is considerably less expensive than traditionally used marine animal meals. The limiting amino acid content of soybean meal is high, but not on the level of Whole fish meal and especially egg.

SPIRULINA:

Spirulina is a blue-green plant plankton rich in raw protein and seven major vitamins: A1, B1, B2, B6, B12, C and E. It naturally contains beta-carotene, color enhancing pigments, and whole range of minerals. In addition, it contains all essential fatty acids and eight amino acids required for complete nutrition. Spirulina is different from other algae and is similar to bacteria in many ways, occupying a niche between plants and bacteria. Spirulina is similar to cyanobacteria in structure (spiral shape, unlike true plant plankton), which can be toxic. Spirulina Blue- Green algae are recognized by the body (fish in particular) as a bacterium, causing an increase in antibodies, which in turn increases disease resistance. Spirulina is also high in usable or digestible amino acids. Spirulina is probably one of the best fish food ingredients available, including for carnivores.

WHOLE WHEAT:

Carbohydrates as explained earlier are not the best source of energy in fish, but still can be useful, especially when whole wheat is used. One reason is for roughage, especially in goldfish and koi, but also for other fish for the wheat-germ found in whole wheat is a natural source of vitamin E, an important vitamin to promote healthy growth and fish color.

SUMMARY:

Compare TetraMin to some of the facts I have explained, then compare foods such as HBH Tropical and Marine Flake Spirulina One Flake Hikari and Sanyu Foods, such as Sanyu Betta Gold.The difference is quite clear for long term growth and health.

By Carl Strohmeyer

americanaquariumproducts.com/Quality_Fish_Food.html

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com

Apr 11, 2008

Decorative items are to your room design what jewelry is to an outfit, and your Tropical interior decorating theme is no exception. You want to accentuate the fun and cheery sense of the beach by using fun beach themed accessories. Adding items such as wall art, knick-knacks and pillows can help compliment your tropical style design.

Wall art is vital in any room, but if you don?t arrange it perfectly it might ruin the entire look. When hanging individual pieces, put the center of the piece at eye level as the focal point. When displaying a variety of items in a group, it?s a useful idea to work out the placement first by working with them on the floor and rearranging them until you work out that perfect look. The Tropical interior decorating theme can be enhanced by watercolors of palm trees and beaches that you might want to hang in colorful frames.

When searching for knick knacks for your interior design be sure to find ones that match your interior design and also show your personality. To highlight your Tropical home decorating, buy knick knacks with a fun and cheery appeal. Adding a collection of vintage tropical kitsch a display shelf can produce a terrific look and so can shells in colorful bowls. When browsing for decorative pieces try to choose ones which reflect your unique tastes. You don?t have to spend too much dough to afford the best stuff, try identifying a consignment store nearby and you?ll be pleased at the good quality accessories you can take home for very little cash.

Envision adding beach themed items, palm tree knick knacks, or flamingos for more of a feeling of the beach. When purchasing your decorative items, however, you need to be certain that they are in keeping with the interior design theme and also have some sort of matching qualities with each other. If you select decorative items in a hurry, then you could end up ruining the ambiance you are working hard to develop.

Another item you might use to add appeal to your design theme is decorative pillows. Pillows add a wonderful touch and look alluring in any room not the least of which is the bedroom, den and kitchen. Using decorative pillows arranged at the head of your bed should give your room a great professional interest. To add a Tropical home decorating feeling to your den or living room, adding pillows to your sofa or chair can really work great. You can display pillows in the kitchen or bath by displaying them on chairs, shelving and any corner or any interesting spot. Sticking to pillows that are fun and tropical will help add a comfortable appeal.

Accessorizing your Tropical interior decorating theme with whimsical pieces with tropical flair can help pull your room together. However before you go out and select a variety of items, you need to have an idea of the types of things you would like and purchase those pieces. Also, consider the sizes you must have that will help fill out the area. If you decorate with these rules, you?ll be able to adorn your home with decorative pieces that work great with each other.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://www.decorate411.com where you can learn more about different decorating styles and get more information on Tropical decorating style.

Apr 11, 2008

Most children are fascinated with animals and want a dog, a cat, two birds, a horse and some fish. But are fish and aquariums suitable for children. The answer to this question is to a very high degree depending on how old your child is. Children under 12-14 years are not suitable to keep an aquarium by themselves and will need help from their parents or some other adult to maintain their aquariums. The child can take care of the daily care such as the feeding of the fish. They will however require help with larger undertakings such as changing the water in the aquarium and cleaning the electrical equipment.

Small children under 5-7 years of age should not be entrusted with the care of any animal including fish. This is not to say that small animals shouldn?t have pets but rather to say that the parents understand that the pet is their responsibility and not the child?s. A child in this age group can benefit a lot from being allowed to interact with animal, se fish swim and feed the fish but is not ready to care for the animal themselves. As an example can be said that children off this age group only should be allowed to feed the fish when a parent is present. It isn?t an uncommon event that children tries to be kind to the fish by feeding them the entire can of fish food causing a biological disaster, and if not discovered and corrected the death of all the fish in the aquarium within a matter of hours.

Small children under 5-7 years should never be allowed to change water in the aquarium or work with the electric equipment used in the aquarium due to the risk of injury.

Some parents might think that a fish is a good pet for a child since it require less care than say a dog and are cheaper. This is only partly true. A fish requires good care to remain healthy and the parents should expect that they will have to do a certain amount of work to keep their child?s fish alive and healthy. True it didn?t cost that much but it is still a living thing and does as such deserve to be threaded with care. Expect that an aquarium will require 5 minutes of your time each day for daily care and an hour each week for partial water changes etc.

Remember that a small aquarium requires more work than a large one. You should therefore never buy a small goldfish bowl or other small aquarium for your child. It might seem easier but requires a lot more work and only experienced aquarists should keep fish in small aquariums. I recommend an aquarium of at least 25-30 gallon (around 100 L) as a first aquarium for your child. Anything smaller will give you a lot of extra work and most likely more dead fish. A little larger aquarium also allows you the luxury to choose between more fish for your aquarium. So what fish should you choose to your child?

Some fish species are more suitable than others for children. First of, a child should never be allowed to keep toxic or otherwise potentially harmful fish species. Secondly the fish should be hardy enough to be easy to take care of, accept flake food and other easily storable foods and be calm enough not to be stressed by the children playing near the aquarium, tapping on the glass etc. Suitable fish includes many livebearers, barbs and tetras. Always buy fish that are suitable for you aquarium and don?t just let your child by the fish he think is most beautiful, coolest or otherwise most appealing without considering their demands.

And don?t forget that you as a parent have to do your research so that you know how to take care of an aquarium before letting your child get one. It might be your child that is getting an aquarium but you are getting the responsibility.

You can read everything you need to know about setting up and caring for an aquarium at AC Tropical Fish & Aquarium. AC Tropical Fish & Aquarium features a large amount of articles containing info on all aspects of aquarium keeping from setting up the aquarium, to diseases and fish breeding. Visit the Aquarium article archive now.